Three Nights in Southern Utah’s majestic parks

Capitol Reef National Park and the aptly named Goblin Valley State park provided skies so clear it felt like the inside of a planetarium

Southern Utah is home to some of the darkest skies left in the country, so I set out for three nights to photograph the Milky Way over its red-rock formations. Capitol Reef National Park and the aptly named Goblin Valley State Park delivered skies so clear it felt like sitting inside a planetarium. The weather, however, made me work for every frame.

Night One: Chimney Rock, Capitol Reef

I rolled into Capitol Reef in the late afternoon with one job to do before dark: scout a shooting location for Chimney Rock. A small, simple parking lot leads to a trail, and a short way up I found the angle I was after, one that put the Milky Way and the Chimney Rock formation in the same frame. My hope was that the Milky Way, standing nearly vertical, would complement the tall column of rock.

Scouting Chimney Rock in the late-afternoon light.

I returned an hour before full dark, set up, framed a few test shots, and waited for the stars to appear.

Milky Way galactic core rising above the red sandstone spire of Chimney Rock in Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

The Milky Way rises beside Chimney Rock. Click on the image to enter the store.

Night Two: Lightning in Cathedral Valley

For the second night, I hired a local professional nightscape photographer to take me to places I couldn’t have reached on my own. That morning, I had passed a flash flood sign on my hike. At the time, it didn’t register as a concern.

The morning’s flash flood forecast: “Possible.” I didn’t give it a second thought.

Cloudy skies followed us out, and after 40 minutes on a curvy, bumpy two-track, we arrived at the Temple of the Sun. We captured a few foreground images and waited as lightning flashed in the distance.

Storm clouds and distant lightning over the Temple of the Sun

Then a short window opened and the Milky Way peeked through the clouds. I was ready. There was just enough time to capture 15 stackable images before it closed again. Later, I was shocked to find that one of those frames had caught a lightning flash on the horizon.

Milky Way galactic core rising above the red sandstone spire of Chimney Rock in Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

The lucky frame: lightning flashing on the horizon at left.

Temple of the Sun Milky Way – Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef

The final stacked image of the Temple of the Sun beneath the Milky Way. Click on image to enter the store.

Later in the night, the lightning crept closer, and we headed out just as torrential rain hit the now-muddy two-track. Our biggest worries were flash flooding and getting stranded, so we raced out. The rain finally let up just short of the paved road, and that morning’s sign suddenly made a lot more sense. Just the week prior the area was over run with flash flooding. Many thanks to Hunter Page for sharing his incredible knowledge and photographic skills in the Valley. And for navigating us safely out during the rain storm.

Night Three: Goblin Valley State Park

I had another location planned for the third night, but following my GPS led me back into the backcountry, and without a high-clearance vehicle I was left scrambling for another option. Goblin Valley State Park was on my list, and at 90 minutes away it was within reach, so I headed out.

I arrived just as the sun was setting and frantically searched for shooting locations. The arena of goblins was amazing, and the Three Sisters rock formation was incredible. After watching another photographer hike out the short distance, I made my way around behind the Three Sisters. The formation was stunning, but being in the dark in an unscouted area was nerve-racking. It seemed we were on a cliff with very little room behind us.

Once again, clouds ruled the sky, but the weather apps promised clearing around 10 p.m. They were right. The sky turned crystal clear and the composition came together. This is an iconic and well-photographed location, and while I normally look for more unique spots, capturing this one was very rewarding.

Three Sisters Milky Way, Goblin Valley State Park, Utah

The Three Sisters, silhouetted against the Milky Way. Click on image to enter the store.

Since it was only a short drive, we headed over to the Goblin Valley arena next. Fascinating hoodoos fill the area, leaving countless compositions to choose from.

Three Sisters Milky Way, Goblin Valley State Park, Utah

Hoodoos frame the Milky Way in the Goblin Valley arena. Click image to enter the store

Lessons from the Dark

I also made it over to Bryce Canyon, and I’ll have a few more images from the trip to share soon. More than anything, this trip showed me how planning, patience and persistence can pay off. I learned I still have to be more precise and more meticulous in compositions. It also reinforced my reverence for truly dark skies and the beauty of the night sky. No matter how many times I do this, I’m still amazed at how the camera captures the delicate beauty and nuance of the Milky Way.

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Milky Way over the Great Lakes